2025 Edition

Window & Door Installation Manual

Emerald City Energy — Installer Field Reference

Window Installation Requirements & Methods

General Rules — All Applications:
• Window frames must protrude past siding or trim (unless angled sill or chamfered exterior sill trim).
• Every cut with exposed unprimed trim must be field primed.
• All exterior nail holes must be filled with spackle or exterior wood filler — not caulk. Seams can be caulked.
• Gaps of more than 1/2" between liner and framing — insert batt insulation. No spray foam. No unfilled cavities.
• All patio and entry doors require sill flashing (fixed or flexible).
• Block frame and kerf installations — sill flashing required.
• Arch trim: Exterior = bendable composite trim + flashing over arch. Interior paint = bendable liners/casing. Interior stain = custom pricing required.

Option C is our term for a nail flange installation, with the nail flange "sealed" to the subsiding and trimmed (and flashed).

Typical Process:

  • Cut siding 3.5" carefully. Use Fein tool in corners to avoid overcuts with skill saw.
  • Remove existing window intact.
  • Liner cutback is almost always required (unless flange setback of new matches old exactly). Cutback tool required for clean interior liner regardless of liner material.
  • Sill flashing is NOT required for nail flange installs.
  • Apply caulk to back of nail flange and "wet set" into opening.
  • Secure to subsiding through nail flange — not through frame of window.
  • Apply flexible flashing tape over flange and subsiding.
  • If flashing required (see flashing requirements), tuck flashing under siding.
  • Apply trim to fill cut. We "block" install trim with overhang length at head — do not miter unless matching or customer request.
  • Caulk: siding to trim, trim to window. Wood cut seams caulked, nail holes spackled (not caulked).

Kerf installations require cutting a groove in trim to set window nail flange in, allowing for "bump out" of window and no liner cutback. Should only be used when interior liner cannot be cut or when no sheathing exists.

  • 2" x 2" is most common material — miter corners to "wrap" around window.
  • Wet set (caulk subsiding or back of trim) and secure in opening through kerfed trim.
  • Sill flashing IS required for kerf installations.
  • Flashing rules apply as normal.
  • Very important: nails must grab framing and not protrude in space between liner and framing.
  • Caulking siding to trim and trim to window is always required.

Wood Sash With 3¼" Frame (Interior Install)

The pocket depth for old double hung wood sash is almost always 3¼". Most common is to install from the interior.

  1. Remove interior stop pieces (moldings) using a broad chisel. Pull nails through backside with pliers.
  2. Pull bottom sash out, cut cords, remove sash. Remove parting stops and take out top sash.
  3. Remove outside sash same manner. Don't remove exterior stop from window jambs — these retain the replacement window.

Prepare the Opening:

  • Test fit new window right away to confirm you can finish.
  • Clean jambs and sill thoroughly.
  • Drive pulleys into frame or remove entirely. Fill holes with caulk.
  • Lay caulk bead along inside of blind stop and backside of window stool.
  • If "insulate sash pocket" is sold — drill holes (one high, one low) and foam fill with non-expanding foam. Do not overfill.

Install the Window:

  • Tilt new window into opening, flush to head. Press tight against caulked blind stop.
  • Check for level, then fasten with partially driven screws into lower left and upper right corners.
  • Close and lock sash, verify level. Shim behind screw holes at four corners and adjust until square.
  • Drive screws through upper left and lower right screw holes.
  • Snug all screws — do not overtighten (could warp jamb).
  • Cut off shims with sharp utility knife. Replace interior stops and nail in place.
  • Caulk: new window to blind stop, windowsill to filler strip. Reinstall interior stop, minimal caulk to cover paint lines.
  • If not using manufacturer sill adapter: fill exterior gap with primed wood wedge (cut at angle to match sill, protrude past frame, chamfered edge), caulked.

Wood Sash With 3¼" Frame (Exterior Install)

  • Remove exterior blind stop first. Remove exterior sash, then parting bead, then interior sash.
  • All other install aspects same (shim to level, wet set, etc.).
  • If "insulate sash pocket" sold — drill and foam fill same as interior method.
  • After window secured, install new exterior stops on three sides.
  • Wedge for gap at sill (or sill adapter) same as interior application.

Wood Sash With Narrow Frame (Adding Stops)

  • Same as Wood Sash 3¼" from exterior. Remove blind stop and sashes.
  • Wet set window, install to interior stops.
  • New exterior primed stops required (all exposed trim must be primed).

Option A — Block Frame for Metal Frame Replacement

  • Remove existing window without damaging siding/trim or liners.
  • Remove glass & center bars when applicable, then collapse prime frame with collapse tool.
  • In rare cases, cutting out window required to avoid liner damage.
  • Prior to removal — check for clipped liners and cut clips if necessary.
  • Start slowly with first window — check for liner damage from loosening.
  • Discuss with customer before moving to subsequent windows if liner damage is occurring (even just paint loosening).
  • Apply flexible flashing to sill — extend at least 4" up sides, tuck down to framing (not flat on subsiding or siding).
  • If significant gaps between liner and framing — insulate with fiberglass batt (gently, do not overstuff causing bowing).
  • Install window level (shim as necessary), secure through frame from interior.
  • Predrill to allow screws set to interior wall for capping exposed screw holes.
  • For Andersen frame colors without matching screw hole covers — use provided screws and leave exposed on inside.
  • If existing trim sits on top of siding — trim must be removed and reinstalled after window install. Customer must be informed trim might be damaged. Moving to Option C preferred.

Option A — Block Frame With Existing Step Frame

  • Collapse existing metal or step-frame window. Steel frame may require prying or grinder.
  • Cut 1" x 2" to create box (mitered corners).
  • Sill flash same as typical Option A. Set box in opening and finish nail to subsiding/framing.
  • Typical block frame install, caulk window to trim, trim to siding including flashing requirements.
  • If in brick — see Brick install method.

Option A — Block Frame In Concrete

  • Pressure treated buck framing must be secured to concrete prior to window installation.
  • Framing material at least as wide as the window frame (2"x4" most windows, some need 2"x6").
  • Apply joint/seam filler to opening prior to and after framing installation.
  • Secure framing with proper concrete fasteners.
  • Apply flexible flashing tape to sill framing, at least 6" up sides.
  • Install window on framing, secure as normal. Trim interior and exterior as normal.

Create Flange Application for Block Frame (Replicate "Option C")

Block frame window (no flange), with flashing tape adhered to window frame and subsiding to replicate a flange. Necessary when window needs to set to liners and flange offset doesn't match old existing window. All other flashing/caulking requirements apply.

  • Block frame application: Use saw/Fein tool to cut flange and cleanly remove old vinyl window without touching trim/siding.
  • Nail flange application: Same as typical.
  • Priority one: Make sure depth matches old to new.
  • If old is deeper than new (more common), assuming Option C or block frame — window cannot recess within siding, must protrude past siding.
  • Customer must be informed that window and liner will have a gap — results in interior step trim or new liners.

Jump Frame & Option C

  • For siding with J channel (vinyl, aluminum, other) — Jump frame is an option if proper overhang (see flashing requirements).
  • Option C: Cut siding, remove frame, wet set to subsiding, flange sealed with flashing tape, new exterior trim. Flash sill.
  • New white J channel installed around trim to "receive" siding — needs to be 1½" deep in most applications (verify at SI).
  • Allows caulking behind foam insulation, then tucking J channel flange behind insulating board (also allows for 5/4" trim).
  • Screw can be added to jamb and sill sides through J channel.

Block Frame for Special Siding

  • Can be used with vinyl or metal siding, provided existing window can be removed without disturbing siding.
  • Window must be measured ½" less in width and height than normal for installation clearance.
  • Wrap flexible flashing in entire opening (sill, head, sides), tuck over sheathing.
  • Unless proper overhang — metal flashing required. Flat metal drip flashing at head nailed to framing with caulking, or "L" flashing tucked between sheathing and framing.
  • Important: water draining behind vinyl/metal siding must be rejected via flashing.
  • Shim window all sides for equal reveal and support. Keep shims back ½" from exterior face for backer rod.
  • Secure through shims. Insert backer rod beyond moisture barrier. Caulk exterior and interior.
  • Brick installations require either block frame or stucco flange method (unless step frame or trim exists inside brick opening).
  • In general: stucco flange should be called out so no exterior trim needed.
  • If steel windows in brick — jump frame is valid option to avoid prying and damaging brick.
  • Otherwise follow block frame install method for all other aspects.

Stucco flange (Z bar, Flush flange) is designed primarily when existing metal frames cannot be removed.

Overhang Rule: Jump frame can ONLY be installed when there is proper overhang (see flashing requirements) or brick.

Exceptions to the overhang rule:

  • Multi-family buildings: Do not install jump frame on multi-family (subject to inspection exception).
  • Decks above windows: Do not automatically qualify as proper overhang — inspection required to ensure water cannot run between deck and wall.

Without overhang:

  • Must remove prime frame and then flash.
  • With stucco, cannot remove prime frame without damaging siding.
  • Frame removal on stucco only if specialty contractor repairs damage after.
  • If flange-attached on stucco without trimming — cannot provide water intrusion warranty.
  • At SI: remove casing of each type/function of window to measure rough opening for accurate sizing.
  • In most cases, new liners are required.

Two options when no sheathing exists:

Option 1 — Five-Year Warranty Block Frame:

  • No flange attached. If customer wants trim, surface mount and do not caulk.
  • Flash the window as normal, then attach surface mounted, uncaulked trim.
  • When flashing — wet set and tuck under T-111, cut nails as necessary. Re-nail siding if needed.

Option 2 — Kerf 2" x 2" Method Only:

  • Cannot cut T-111 more than 1.5", so only 2" trim option.
  • See Kerf (Option C) section for install instructions.

Normal "critical measurement" appointment and order product(s). Two weeks prior to install — open interior wall to expose potential plumbing, electrical, or other obstruction.

Process for Removing Drywall:

  1. Discuss with customer the location of new opening.
  2. Determine the size of the product.
  3. Mark location vertically with pencil and level — show customer.
  4. Cover floor and furniture.
  5. Remove drywall from floor to ceiling.
  6. Look for wires, plumbing, and water damage.
  7. Haul away debris and cover opening with plastic.
  8. Discuss with customer where wires/plumbing need to be moved.
Sheetrock Note: We apply initial sheetrock only — no taping, mudding, sanding, or texturing. Customer needs a sheetrock specialist (or DIY) after our installation. New siding will be primed unless requested otherwise. Seams caulked per manufacturer recommendations. Cut edges must be field primed. Painting not included.
Key Rule: If the distance DOWN from overhang is greater than the protrusion (distance OUT) of the overhang — flashing is required. Example: if overhang is less than 2 feet, flashing is required.
  • Use proper caulk, color matched. Do not use exterior on interior (or vice versa).
  • ¼" wide gaps max. If wider (up to ½"), insert backer rod, then caulk.
  • Tool for smooth and clean caulking line.
  • For interior stained wood — check with customer: clear caulk or no caulk. Never use white on stained wood. Do not fill nail holes unless using matching wood filler.
IMPORTANT: Caulking is one of the most cited complaints by customers. Make sure caulking is neat, not excessive, not messy, not smeared everywhere.

Arrival to Completion — Best Practices for Lead Installers

Arrival & Setup

  • If arriving more than 15 minutes late — call customer with expected ETA.
  • Call 15–30 minutes prior to arrival (Ring Central App) — ask about parking.
  • Verify any vehicles that need to be moved. Do not block vehicles, mailboxes, garbage cans unless customer directs.
  • With paperwork in hand — knock/ring door, introduce yourself and crew. Identify correct company (ECE, MHS, IMG).

Customer Discussion — Before Work Begins

  • How long expected to be on jobsite.
  • Review cut station / setup location.
  • Make customer aware of potential dust around cut station.
  • Confirm power outlet(s) to be used.
  • Review the Window/Door Customer Check List with the customer.
  • Ensure a signed copy of the checklist (specific to the job) is in paperwork.
  • Obtain a signed copy if missing. Write in any unique project considerations.

Walk-Around & Logistics

  • While Assistant sets up — walk around with customer: where to start, plan of progression (which rooms/floors).
  • Ask if acceptable to use bathroom. If yes — no sign after use (clean up every time).
  • Put out yard sign at end of driveway for the entirety of the job.
  • Inform customer of walk-through at completion and estimated time to be available. Customer must know final payment will be collected.

Cleanliness Standards

Zero Exceptions: Boots/shoes never touch inside of customers' homes — regardless of customer acceptance. "Sorry, company requirement." Canvas tarps only under windows/doors, not as paths.
  • Lay down runners as necessary to work locations. Booties acceptable — remove/put on every transition in/out.
  • Set up tarps under each install location.
  • When cutting interior — ample plastic covering furniture, dust not flying beyond plastic.
  • Tarps snug to wall to capture all debris.
  • When cutting liners — vacuum at time of cutting. Whenever possible, cut liner from exterior and cover interior with plastic.
  • When cutting/breaking glass — apply roll plastic to opposite side to avoid broken glass debris.
  • Tarp under cut station. Use sawdust collection bags at all times (do not remove, replace as needed).
  • Use tarps on exterior to collect debris. Otherwise use magnet for nails.
  • New windows must be clean — remove stickers, clean glass, frame and tracks/jambs.
  • Cleanup includes sawdust, nails, etc. in flower beds.
  • Pick up all debris — dispose in truck, do not use customer's garbage.
  • Caulking lines must be clean, no smearing fingers on primed trim.
  • Vacuum all areas including cut station (even if in driveway).
  • Lead Installers must visually inspect all areas even if cleanup assigned to Assistants.
  • Trucks must be clean at all times, outside and in.

Installation Notes

  • Always measure old window/door before removing — confirm new product fits.
  • Safety equipment must be utilized (gloves, glasses, masks, earplugs).
  • Do not let Assistants operate power tools or ladders without proper training — their safety is your responsibility.
  • When cutting siding — no overcuts. Use Fein tool for corners.
  • Use liner cutback tool for smooth liner cuts.
  • When collapsing aluminum windows — check for clipped liners prior. Go slowly on first window. If damage is inevitable, stop and show customer.
  • Interior liners: MDF = caulk all seams. Stainable wood = do not caulk, advise matching wood filler.
  • Swing doors: make sure door operates perfectly and is reviewed with customer. See Door Installation section.
  • If Lead is present — follow Lead Paint Procedures exactly.
  • If windows/doors appear mismeasured — call SI Tech, do not discuss with customer. Call office to discuss options privately.
  • Any negative issues — call office before involving customer.
  • If anything won't finish as planned or product in error — call office during the day so reordering can start. Enter details on completion paperwork.
  • Do not leave jobsite early if issues — talk with Field Manager first.

Completion

  • CompanyCam photos and documentation (see CompanyCam tab).
  • After thorough cleanup — walk through every product with customer.
  • Operate each window and door with customer, showing operation and screen removal.
  • Fill out completion paperwork in detail.
  • If service remaining — clearly outline items and details. Do not promise exact time — office will inform ETA.
  • Collect final payment (check or call office with card info). If service remaining — customer can leave 10% balance.
  • Cover follow-up communication expectations. If you promise someone will call — explicitly document for office.
  • If complete and customer is satisfied — let them know the importance of reviewing us online. Send review link from phone.

CompanyCam Procedures

Site inspectors must capture pictures providing a comprehensive overview. Not every window needs photographing — but each distinct install type must be documented.

  • Exterior Pictures: Overall shots from various angles, highlighting surroundings and existing conditions.
  • Interior Pictures: Document interior space where installation will occur. Photograph areas around each window/door location, showing pre-existing conditions.

Document each step for quality control and future reference. Take "during" photos of every window/door only when the job is lead positive.

  • Before Installation: Clear view of existing conditions before any work.
  • Lead Verification: For lead positive jobs — photos confirming lead installation details.
  • After Installation: Photos showcasing finished product and improvements.
  • Identify & Document: Photos of problematic windows/doors with arrows and annotations highlighting specific concerns.
  • Description: Detailed description on the photo itself in clear terms.
  • Paperwork: Also document on official service paperwork.
  • Access the Checklist for the specific project.
  • Check off each task as completed (installation and service).
  • Take "after" pictures for each checklist item. Upload photos to corresponding item.

Checklists

Pre-Construction Checklist — Review With Customer

Arrive on time
Verify parking location and cut station setup location
Introduce crew members to customer
Quantity of windows/doors
Color
Handing for entry door(s)
Installation method (trim, no trim, etc.)
Materials to be used (trim, color caulking, etc.)
Time expected on site
Permission to use bathroom — which one
Cut station setup location
Outlets to be used
Discuss need for clear access / removal of items from windows
Starting location and sequence thereafter
Window coverings/brackets if not already removed
If liner cutback — explain loss of sill/liner
Potential for damage to liner, sheetrock, lathe/plaster, etc.
Incidental damage to siding
If alarm sensors — discuss removal/elimination
Discuss window and glass cleaning expectations after install
Discuss walk-through required at end of job — payment to be collected

Field Quality Control Checklist

Preconstruction checklist completed
Vehicle parked correctly and clean, organized
Cut station organized, clean, safe
Debris, old windows not stacked on house, etc.
Overall cleanliness of site
Ladders, planks properly set up, safe
Proper install method per paperwork
Clean cuts
Proper flashing
Clean caulking
Customer communication / expectation / mindset
Yard sign out

Safety

A safe work environment for our crews and customers is of paramount importance. For full details, review the 2025 Safety Manual — Emerald City Energy (70-page manual available on SharePoint).

Basic Safety Requirements

  • No installer can operate power tools without proper training and showing proficiency prior to field use.
  • Eye protection worn whenever using power tools.
  • Clothing: Company-provided clothing worn every day. No removing sleeves. Shoes/boots required — no open-toed shoes/sandals.
  • No texting while driving.
  • No installer can handle raw glass (including removing glass from windows/doors) without proper training and showing proficiency.
  • Gloves to be worn when handling raw glass.
  • Fall protection properly set up and in use at all times.

Lead Paint Procedures

  • If prior to 1978 — Lead Inspection report and Pamphlet Signoff added to SI paperwork.
  • After SI — upload Lead Inspection Report and Pre-Renovation Form into customer's file in Quo.
  • Create job packet including Renovation Notice (to be posted outside home) and Renovation Checklist.
  • Perform lead test at every opening, inside and out. Score through paint to bare wood for accurate reading.
  • Use 3M test kit per instructions.
  • If no lead — document on Lead Inspection form.
  • If lead found — inform customer and provide Lead Paint Pamphlet. Let them know there will be additional charge.
  • Never assume there is no lead. If 1–2 windows test positive, assume the rest are positive.
  • Fill out Lead Inspection Report / Test Kit Documentation Form.
  • Turn in form with materials required for lead install.
REQUIRED: Renovation must be performed by certified company. One Lead Certified cardholder must be on site at start AND finish of job.
  • Post signs clearly defining work area and warning occupants.
  • Remove all objects from work area or cover with plastic — all edges sealed.
  • Close and cover all duct openings with plastic, seal edges.
  • Close windows and doors in work area.
  • Floor plastic taped down — minimum 6ft beyond perimeter of windows (or sufficient distance to contain dust, whichever greater).
  • All personal tools and exterior of waste containers free of dust when leaving work area.
  • After install — clean until no dust, debris, or residue remains.
  • Collect all paint chips/debris in heavy duty garbage bags.
  • Remove and dispose of plastic sheeting.
  • Clean walls: ceiling down to floor — HEPA vac or damp cloth/Lysol wipes.
  • Vacuum all surfaces including furniture with HEPA vac.
  • Mop uncarpeted floors (keep wash and rinse water separate).
  • Certified renovator must perform visual inspection of cleaning.
  • If any dust/debris/residue present — re-clean and re-inspect until NONE remains.
  • Cover ground with protective sheeting at least 10ft from house.
  • If work area within 10ft of another structure — erect vertical containment.
  • Doors either closed and covered in plastic (if using for entry/exit).
  • Collect all paint chips/debris in heavy duty garbage bags.
  • Remove and dispose of plastic sheeting.
Take CompanyCam photos of every step showing lead procedures were followed. Complete the checklist in your job packet and turn into office with completion paperwork.
Lead certified installer must be on site at all times. Non-certified assistants must have signed training document in vehicle.

Sash Pocket Install (no siding or liner cutting):

  • "Lead Hazard" sign posted at entry.
  • 4 mil plastic inside and out — 10' outside, 6' inside, taped to ground/floor.
  • Tack mats at each window location.
  • Photos taken of setup.
  • After removing lead painted windows — sashes wrapped in plastic and taped, removed to outside (not walked through house).
  • HEPA vacuum must be used.
  • Complete wipe down with verification of no lead remaining.
  • Capture all plastic in garbage bag, gooseneck back and wrap in duct tape.
  • Photos showing completion, clean up, no lead dust.
  • Photos texted to (206) 501-0493 with Job # and Customer last name.

Cutting Siding or Interior Liners:

  • Same setup as above.
  • Plastic "seal" inside window — all dust goes outside and is collected.
  • Spray to moisten areas being cut to lessen dust.
  • Do not perform in heavy winds.
  • Same removal, vacuum, wipe down, bag, and photo procedures.
  • Photos texted to (206) 501-0493 with Job # and Customer last name.
ItemExpected Qty Per Box
4 Mil Plastic Sheeting2 rolls
Painters Drop Plastic2 sheets
Blue Painters Tape2 rolls
Duct Tape2 rolls
Spray Bottles (EMPTY)2
HEPA Masks12
Boot Covers12
Swiffer™ Mop1
Swiffer™ Mop Pads1 box
Sticky Mats2 pads
Sticky Mat Base1
Spare HEPA Vac Filter1
Clorox/Lysol Wipes2 canisters
Laminated Lead Warning Posters2
Laminated Renovation Notice2
Danger Tape2 small or 1 large

Pre-hung Exterior Door Installation

Step-by-Step Procedure

  1. Verify door is correct product with customer. Remove wrap, check for damage, show customer to approve. Review trim, hardware, and install expectations.
  2. Double check size to verify fit.
  3. Remove old door:
    • Separate brickmold (exterior trim) from jamb.
    • Gently remove interior casing trim (if being reinstalled).
    • Remove hinge pins and remove door slab from jamb.
    • Use Sawzall to cut screws/nails from existing jamb/framing.
    • Remove jamb to outside.
  4. Dry fit sill pan:
    • If sill pan exterior leg won't seat — score and remove leg.
    • If using adjustable pan — glue underside of middle section to outside sections, let dry.
    • Caulk sill framing and wet set sill pan in place.
    • If hard pan not doable — use flexible flashing to create sill pan.
  5. Head flash if exposed — tuck flashing under siding.
  6. Set Door:
    • Caulk back (interior side) of sill pan and along seams of three-piece sill pan.
    • If brickmold attached — caulk back of brickmold.
    • Set door in opening.
  7. Start Screws and Shim:
    • Drive long screws part way through hinges (1 Top, 1 Bottom) — #10 x 3" Deck Screws.
    • Drive three long screws (top/middle/bottom) behind weatherstripping on strike side. Do not full set until shimmed.
    • From inside — check door is centered and plumb visually when closed.
    • With door open — verify with level that door is plumb on hinge side.
    • When plumb — set shims just above three screw locations, double-check level/plumb.
    • Drive screws in completely.
    • On strike side — set shims above screw and behind strike plate (four locations).
    • Verify plumb again and even reveal. Drive screws completely.
  8. Adjust threshold screws for tight seal with slab sweep (not too tight).
  9. Install door pads in bottom corners.
  10. Install hardware.
  11. Operate door — verify no last-minute adjustments needed.
  12. Cut away shims even with jamb (Fein tool or score and snap).
  13. Foam or fiberglass insulation between jamb and framing (Blue Can — 1 per door).
  14. Install interior trim.
  15. Caulk: Exterior trim to siding, trim to door, interior casing to wall and door.
Door with Sidelite: Use flat metal clips bent over sheetrock. WS = behind Weatherstrip Screw.

Reference & Specifications

This basic chart is a guideline for standard one or two story single family structures. For third story or more, or beyond 10' in width, structural engineer specifications are required.

Opening Width1 Story2 Story
Up to 4'Double 2x4Double 2x6
4' to 6'Double 2x6Double 2x8
6' to 8'Double 2x8Double 2x10
8' to 10'Double 2x10Double 2x12

For detailed IRC Table R602.7 specifications, refer to the printed manual charts.

Tempered glass is required in these situations:

  1. Glass in any door.
  2. Glass in any shower, bathtub, hot tub, steam room, sauna, or whirlpool area where bottom edge is less than 60" above standing surface and drain outlet.
  3. Glass in fixed or operable panels adjacent to a door: within 24" arc of either vertical door edge (closed) AND bottom edge less than 60" above walking surface.
  4. Glass meeting ALL of these conditions:
    • Bottom edge less than 18" above floor
    • Top edge greater than 36" above floor
    • Total glass area greater than 9 sq.ft. (1,296 sq.in.)
    • One or more walking surfaces within 36" horizontally
  5. Glass in walls used as pool/spa barriers: bottom edge less than 60" above pool side AND within 5 feet of deck area.
  6. Glass in walls enclosing stairway landings or within 5 feet of bottom/top of stairways: bottom edge less than 60" above walking surface.

Emergency egress windows must meet the following minimums (per IRC):

RequirementMinimum
Clear Opening Area5.7 sq. ft. (5.0 sq. ft. at grade floor)
Minimum Clear Width20 inches
Minimum Clear Height24 inches
Maximum Sill Height44 inches above floor

Note: Width and height minimums cannot be combined to meet area requirement. Verify local jurisdiction amendments.

Common frame depths by manufacturer and product line (refer to printed reference charts for complete specifications). Always verify depth match between old and new windows — if old is deeper than new, window must protrude past siding.

Tip: Bring frame depth reference charts to every site inspection to quickly verify sizing compatibility.

Company Tools List — On Trucks

Saws & Nail Guns

  • DeWalt 20V Cordless Sliding Miter Saw 7-1/4"
  • DeWalt FLEXVOLT 60V Cordless 8-1/4" Table Saw
  • DeWalt XR 20V Cordless 7-1/4" Circular Saw
  • DeWalt FLEXVOLT 60V Cordless Reciprocating Saw
  • DeWalt 20V Cordless Oscillating Multi-Tool
  • DeWalt Angle Grinder 4-1/2" Corded — "Cut back tool Modified"
  • DeWalt 20V 15-Gauge Cordless Finish Nailer
  • DeWalt 20V 18-Gauge Cordless Nailer
  • DeWalt 20V 30-degree Framing Nailer
  • DeWalt DCB118 20V/60V MAX Rapid Charger
  • DeWalt DCB6092 20V/60V MAX 9Ah Batteries (Qty 3)

Ladders & Fall Protection

  • 22 Ft. Aluminum 5-in-1 Multi-Position Ladder (Qty 3)
  • Extension Ladder Covers 2-pack (Qty 3)
  • Werner Short-Body Ladder Jack (Qty 3)
  • Aluminum Extension Plank 8ft–13ft (Qty 2)
  • Aluminum Slim-Fold Work Platform (Qty 1)
  • Werner 6 ft. Fiberglass Step Ladder
  • 10 in. Adjustable Roof Bracket (Qty 2)
  • Rooftop Safe-Tie Bucket Kit (Qty 2)
  • Mounted Self-Retracting Lifelines (Qty 2)

Workstation & Installation Equipment

  • Folding Sawhorse (Qty 2)
  • OSB 7/16" Sheathing (Qty 1)
  • Triple Outlet Extension Cord (Qty 2)
  • Heavy Duty Extension Cord 50', 12 Gauge (Qty 2)
  • 5-Gallon Corded Wet/Dry Shop Vacuum (Qty 1)
  • 44 Gallon Trash Can (Qty 3)
  • Pump-Action Vacuum Lifter 10" Suction Cups
  • Zip Wall Zip Pole 10 ft Spring Barrier
  • 4 mil Plastic Sheeting
  • Levels: 2 ft, 4 ft, 6 ft
  • Neoprene Floor Runner 27" x 20' (Qty 2) — interior protection
  • Heavy Duty Tarp 16 ft x 20 ft (Qty 3) — exterior protection

Cleaning Supplies & Miscellaneous

  • 5 Gal. Home Bucket
  • Magic Eraser Sponges
  • Paper Towels (Qty 3)
  • Glass Cleaner (Qty 2)
  • Plastic Razor Blades
  • Push Broom
  • Aluminum Dustpan